WL
Good box for low price but need some mods.
The quality of the box Is good quality for the price but the outlets looks a little bit "china-style" in plastic but might work in the long run. I have only used this once jet. (connectors not ABB/ Schneider/GARO quality-style in/outlets)
Although I needed to modified it before use.
First notice:
When it comes from fabric, all four Schuko outlets are wired in parallell to L1 ONLY! This is not good if you, like me are using big PA, smoke-machines, several lights etc.
What I did was, re-using the jumpers that where provided between the outlets and connected it as follow:
first upper: L1, second upper: L2
both low outlets connected to L3 (first to inlet and second to first to minimize the number of cables under one screw).
I figured the L3 is probably least used in most cases and that's why I connected the last two outlets to this phase. Then I wrote Dymo-labels and put on front for each phase "L1, L2, L3".
This mod took me about 10 mins as I am an electrican but not hard to do, only be sure that you have good connection between cable and screws and not tighten i too loose or too hard.
2nd notice: one M6 nut was loose inside the box, this is to hold the metal bracket to the plastic case. It was very hard to put it back in the small deep hole but it worked after I used a small magnet-tool.
3rd notice: the cable restrain on the inlet was loose. I needed to use a small flat screwdriver to put the "o-ring" back and a wrench to screw the restrain back.
Except for above it's a very handy box for an excellent price (about half of similar box in sweden).
Similliar cheapier I saw in Sweden was a CEE inlet with a 3 schuko-outlet box for 2/3rd of this price.
This is more of a building-site-box style and fits my need better. I like the CEE outlets so I can daisy chain this box for bigger events.
Note: as there are no fuses or RCD the outlets are 16A (as input fuse) and without residual-current device (!). Therefore make sure the input 3-phase inlet has a RCD on it's circuit before using this outside!
Another way would be to connect a loose RCD in each schuko outlet.
Although I needed to modified it before use.
First notice:
When it comes from fabric, all four Schuko outlets are wired in parallell to L1 ONLY! This is not good if you, like me are using big PA, smoke-machines, several lights etc.
What I did was, re-using the jumpers that where provided between the outlets and connected it as follow:
first upper: L1, second upper: L2
both low outlets connected to L3 (first to inlet and second to first to minimize the number of cables under one screw).
I figured the L3 is probably least used in most cases and that's why I connected the last two outlets to this phase. Then I wrote Dymo-labels and put on front for each phase "L1, L2, L3".
This mod took me about 10 mins as I am an electrican but not hard to do, only be sure that you have good connection between cable and screws and not tighten i too loose or too hard.
2nd notice: one M6 nut was loose inside the box, this is to hold the metal bracket to the plastic case. It was very hard to put it back in the small deep hole but it worked after I used a small magnet-tool.
3rd notice: the cable restrain on the inlet was loose. I needed to use a small flat screwdriver to put the "o-ring" back and a wrench to screw the restrain back.
Except for above it's a very handy box for an excellent price (about half of similar box in sweden).
Similliar cheapier I saw in Sweden was a CEE inlet with a 3 schuko-outlet box for 2/3rd of this price.
This is more of a building-site-box style and fits my need better. I like the CEE outlets so I can daisy chain this box for bigger events.
Note: as there are no fuses or RCD the outlets are 16A (as input fuse) and without residual-current device (!). Therefore make sure the input 3-phase inlet has a RCD on it's circuit before using this outside!
Another way would be to connect a loose RCD in each schuko outlet.
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